I finally got to see the "real" Lijiang on Sunday. Here I thought I had been to Lijiang. It has been a week and a day since I arrived. Yet it turns out I've only seen the tourist section. A ten minute minivan ride away from the tourist ridden cobble stone maze, restaurants, bars, photo and souvenir shops and random commodity hawkers takes you to an altogether different world. I should have known better than to think I had been in Lijiang!
We arrived to the church and "Christy" and her friend pointed out the huge sign on the second floor the the 2 story building. It had a cross with Chinese writing. It was clearly a church. And I'm writting about it only because it was a Three Self Church.
Underneath was a bread shop which I'd visit later and buy two meat filled buns that were definitely the worst thing I've eaten since I came to China. The fried bread on the outside was great but the sweet and salty surprise meat on the inside was just more than I could stomach. How do you not eat something in front of people without offending? I ate what I could and quietly discarded the rest.
As we were walking up to the sanctuary "Christy" explained the schedule of the morning. Bible reading, prayers, songs, and a teaching were what I could expect. The sanctuary had a cross at the front of the stage. There was the typical speaking podium, piano and pews. Sitting through the service was like sitting through any worship service back home. In fact they sang 3 hymns I'm familiar with. The people greeted me with smiles. After the service I was introduced to "Christy's" class mates; all of them spoke rather good English too. As a non-Chinese speaker I felt like I was at church. The spirit of the people was one of joy and celebration.
After church we walked to one of the countryside villages. We were on our way to an orphanage and another Three Self Church. The village we were walking to has mainly Lisu people. One of the beautiful things about this area of China is the different ethnic groups. I've met people from at least 5 different groups and in Yunnan there must be more than 20. For all of you who have been to Africa, the walk to the Lisu village felt like walking the dirt roads of any East Afican country. We walked along rice fields with several women hard at work in the fields. There was the typical trash on the side of the dirt road and the smells of rotting "somethings". "I have smelled these smells somewhere else in the world before", I thought to myself. When we approached the village all of the sudden there were paved roads again. Odd!
Our first stop: The Orphanage.
Orphanages are always heart rendering for me and this one was no different. There are 21 or so kids ranging from primary to middle school (from what I could see). The host family wasn't there but I learned that they are Korean and Taiwanese. A Korean-Taiwanese couple serving in Lijiang! "Christy" told me that this host family literally gave up all they had to move to Lijiang and support these kids. God help them!
The kids were shy at first but of course they were. Here I was this towering white foreigner who couldn't speak their language. When we arrived the kids were working on homework. Yes, it was Sunday but many were studiously at work on math assignments. These kids have so many barriers to overcome when it comes to education. It looked like the center really tries to help them succeed. I sat next to some of the kids and purposely interrupted their study. How dare I! They didn't seem to mind. After sitting down the shyness dissipated and our body language allowed us to communicate. There was a lot of laughing.
I found that there are several aspiring photographers at the center. I always feel odd about taking photos of kids; it feels like I'm taking something from them. (Dad brace yourself) In the past I've found kids love it when they are the ones who take the photos. I thought that I'd let the kids take some of the photo's of themselves. They really got into it. Dad, I managed to secure the camera on their wrists with the wrist string! I showed them where to look and then taught them about the trigger button. You have to push on it for a long time. The kids had either little patience or a great need for instant gratification because they couldn't wait for the 3 seconds it took for picture to snap. Actually sometimes I'm impatient too! They had a blast and I enjoyed watching them.
(Kid's Photo with the courtyard in the background and the woman is motioning to press down longer on the trigger button)The orphanage had a wonderful courtyard full of beautiful plants and flowers. The center had a classroom, dorm rooms, and kitchen at least. I was given the tour of most of the facilities. When we went into the kitchen they were making lunch. Potatoes! I was surprised by a woman who spoke to me in Korean. "Christy" had informed this staff member that I've been living in Korea for 4 years. For the remainder of the time at the orphanage I got to speak in Korean to this Chinese woman. Not knowing Chinese hinders my interaction emensely so it was exciting for me to interact with a Chinese person who did not speak English. She was impressed by my very limited and broken Korean. I was impressed that she understood me and that we could have "more or less" a conversation.
I was invited to have lunch with the kids and staff. We sat at low wooden takes and even lower little stools. Yes, I felt like I was in kindergarten again but I'm beginning to see that this is the Chinese way. In Korea they sit on the floor and in China they sit very near to the ground yet not on the ground. I was informed this week that in the old old days in China they sat on the floor. Later on the Chinese starting sitting off of the floor. The Koreans and the Japanese learned this way from the Chinese. Ha, I'm not so sure my Korean friends would like this explanation but alas it is interesting to me.
The staff placed a gigantic metal bowl full of spicy fried potatoes in the middle of the table. Chopsticks were handing out and a blessing was given. They asked that I bless the meal in English. I accepted the invitation, proceeded and then repeated "amen" at least 3 times to help the kids know that the blessing was finished. The staff had to "wake" them up from their blessing slumber. We ate together and the kids laughed at me for my unprofessional chopstick skills. I really have practice with chopsticks during the last 4 years. In fact I've gotten quite good. However, in Korea chopsticks are thin and metal. In China they are more stout and made of wood or stone. I looked like a beginner in front of these kids! They got a kick out of me at least.
I've enjoyed great meals in China. There are usually a few dishes to choose from and always rice. I have no idea what these kids usually eat for meals but eating lunch with them showed me that they really live on the bare minimum. I asked one of the girls what her favorite food was and she answered, "Potato's". I got the feeling that they eat a lot of potatoes. As a tourist I've seen the brighter side of Yunnan. However, sharing time and lunch with these kids allowed me to see the other side. We didn't even have rice!
(Kids at the lunch table)As lunch finished some of the younger kids came up to me and started touching my hair. To be expected. Then they noticed my watch. It was interesting only until they noticed the HAIR on my arms. It was so different to them. They pointed to it and then one of the girls put his arm up to mine. She motioned for me to look as if I had never realized that hair could be black. The look of interest and curiousity on the kids faces was priceless. If I was in their position I surely would have done the same thing. I was to them a true oddity. If only I could have captured that moment on film.
I've definitely been amazed by the wide spectrum of living situations in China. From the high rises, Olympic built buildings and 5 Star hotels of Beijing to the Orphanage and rural areas of Yunnan I've found both extremes. I found myself thinking, "Wow, in this one country they have such rich and such poor people. It is like they have so many different countries all in one." However, I know better than to think that in Korea and in the USA that we are not lacking in both extremes. We have both too but maybe for me it is a matter of being aware of the presence of each. I have been surprised, however, by the poverty I've seen in China. Maybe I should have known better. However, with all the news about China making it at as a significant world player I expected to see more like what I see in Korea--highly developed and comfortable living. This may be the case in the major cities but it is definitely not so for the rest of China. There is significant struggle and hardship just for basic necessities. At least that is what I've seen in Yunnan.
Secong Stop: Lisu Three Self Church
When we left the Orphanage we went to the LiSu Self Church. This church is combined with a school that serves students from the countryside. Students from the countryside have it the hardest when it comes to receiving an education. So this compound/center provides a dormitory and schooling. The services was very similar to the morning service. However, I enjoyed hearing the students sing a few special songs. We even sang "Jesus Loves Me". I was impressed that the lesson was taught by a young woman. Nice to see that woman can teach in this setting!
When the service ended we were invited into the woman teachers "home". This made my heart sink. This woman has been married for 3 months. Her and her husband live in a one room dorm room the size of any small bedroom in the USA. There were a single bed and a bunk bed, a desk and a dresser. It was a very meager set up. I can't imagine myself living in her space let alone living there as a newly married woman. She treated us to plums and hot water and shared her prized wedding photo's with us.
(Christ on the far right and the teacher on her left)What a day in the "real" Lijiang. I'm grateful for "Christy" who had the courage to speak to a foreigner. I'm grateful she had the energy to show me a part of her world and share with me a piece of her life. She is a woman of incredible compassion.
Today I'm doing a ton of "nothing". It is wonderful to chill. Tomorrow I fly to Hanoi. A new country and a new adventure awaits.
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